How Does Wireless Charging Work? || Crude Wireless Energy Transfer Circuit

Nowadays when it is time to charge your phone using a microUSB cable is not the only available option anymore There also exist wireless charging stations that can transfer sufficient energy literally through the Air a Close relative to such wireless chargers is the well-known Transformer Which can also transmit energy without the need of a wired connection as well But the question is how can we alter the booking behavior of this big and heavy transformer in order to transmit energy Solely through the Air Let’s find out First of let’s talk about the working behavior of the transformer Just like every other common one it consists of a primary coil and a secondary coil that are placed inside a closed iron core By applying a 50 Hertz sine wave voltage to the primary coil current flows through it which therefore possesses a magnetic field strength and creates a magnetic flux density But most importantly it creates a magnetic flux which flows through the entire core and thus reaches the second coil Nevertheless a very small portion of this flux though will not reach the other coil and thus create a leakage flux You can actually compare this behavior to an electrical circuit while the iron core has a relatively low resistance due to its magnetic permeability Of around three hundred to ten thousand. The air around the iron has a much higher Resistance due to its permeability of only one Since current on this case the Magnetic flux choose the way of least resistance Most of it will flow through the iron But leakage flux still does exist and because we originally apply the sine voltage to the primary We created a sine current and sine flux. Which is luckily just what we need to induce a voltage into the secondary After hooking up a load to it. We can observe that we successfully transferred energy wirelessly as soon as I lifted off the i section and furthermore even removed the coils from the iron core the dream of wireless charging through the Air fell apart rather quickly. To find a solution to that problem Let’s go back to the traditional transformer setup this t equivalent circuit diagram describes the working behavior of our Transformer well enough to understand the main problem We got the resistance of the primary and secondary Coil which represents the copper losses the leakage inductance of the primary and secondary Which represents the leakage flux and finally the losses of the iron core through Eddy currents and the hysteresis If no load is attached on the secondary most current will flow through the cross impedance This way the input current will have a phase shift of 90 degrees compared to the voltage Because the inductive component of the iron core dominates Which is also the main reason for the output voltage. If you would short-circuit the secondary coil Most current would flow through the serial impedance which is proven by the phase shift of the input current Which is now almost zero degrees because the leakage inductances are rather small But if we go back to the no load circuit and remove the i section of the core the voltage on the output collapses because even though the inductance of the coil decreases drastically with this removal the leakage inductance is no bigger than the cross impedance this means according to a simple voltage divider Almost all of the input voltage will drop across the leakage inductance Instead of the cross impedance and thus the voltage on the output decreases drastically This leakage inductance is dependent on the coupling factor Which basically describes how much of the primary flux will reach the secondary coil. In our case though the coupling factor will always be small due to air coupling So the solution is to add a capacitor in series Which will near its resonance frequency cancel out the effect of the leakage inductance In my case my 1.1 millihenry coil will receive a 100 nanofarad capacitor which should equal a resonance frequency of around 15.2 kilohertz After adding a small load on the secondary and powering the primary with my function generator Near the resonance frequency we can see pretty much nothing What I forgot was to add another 100 nanofarad Capacitor in paralell to the secondary to achieve the same effect as with the primary This time the led finally lights up and showcases that you can actually put a decent distance between the primary and secondary Even bigger loads like this 1W led can be lit solely by using my – let’s be honest not well tuned resonator circuit Modern Wireless charging stations are definitely a bit more advanced But also use a high resonance frequency in this case of slightly above 130 kilohertz But that does not mean that they are perfect while charging my smartphone with the traditional wire connection the charging process required 9283 milliwatt hours Now if I repeat that same charging process with the wireless energy transfer it required 15168 milliwatt hours That is around 1.6 times as much and clearly shows that the efficiency is certainly not the best at the moment Additionally the utilized Qi standard contains a communication protocol which makes it almost impossible to rebuild a Qi charging station by ourselves But you can always create your own transmitter and receiver circuit from scratch, but that is a subject for another video until then don’t forget to like share and subscribe That would be awesome Stay creative and I will see you next time!

How a Character LCD Works – Part 2

Hello, and welcome to Episode 2 on how Character LCDs work. So, in the last episode I showed you how you can control these screens using nothing but toggle switches, and if you haven’t seen
that, I suggest you go back and watch that one first. So, in this episode I’m going to try to
show how to connect one of these to a computer. And the computer that I’m going to use is
the Commodore 64. So, you might ask why a Commodore and not
an Atari or an Apple II, or something like that. Well, all of the Commodores have something
called a user port and It goes as far back as the Commodore PET. The VIC-20 has one, the 64 has one, so does
the Plus/4 and the 128. The only Commodore machine that really lacks
a user port is the Commodore 16, which is fairly rare. So, I have no idea why Commodore called this
the user port. But what it really is, its a parallel port
and a serial port all combined into one connector. However, for this particular project, we’re
only interested in the parallel aspect of the user port. If you take a look inside the Commodore 64,
you’ll see it has two 6526 chips. These are input/output chips and they actually
do quite a few things, but what we’re interested in are the 16 lines of general purpose input/output
that these chips have. There are 32 lines in total between the two
chips. These are pretty similar to the general I/O
lines you might have on a Raspberry Pi or a micro controller. However, most of these lines are in use by
the computer for things like the keyboard, joystick ports, disk drive ports, etc. What we’re interested in are the 8 lines
of port B. These go straight to the user port and are not used for anything, other than
whatever we want to use them for. Now, the thing is, 8 lines are not enough
to drive an LCD like this because we would need two more lines for the enable pin and
the register select. However, we can easily solve that problem
by operating the screen in 4 bit mode instead of 8 bit mode. And here’s how that works. Let’s say we wanted to send the number 42
to the screen, since that is the meaning of life, the universe, and everything. Well, we would send this 8-bit binary number
to represent that. And it would be assigned to the 8 data pins
just like I showed in the last video. But, if we set the screen to 4-bit mode, we
would just use the last 4 pins on the screen like this. And we’d send the first 4 bits, then the
next 4 bits. In this mode the screen will always be expecting
two burst of data for every command or character sent to the screen. So, back to our user-port diagram, we will
only need 6 pins to control the screen instead of 8. Of course, we’ll use the ground and +5v
to power the screen. Then we’ll use these last for lines for
the data bits. PB3 can operate the register select. Then PB2 can operate the enable line. So, once we hook the LCD up to the user port,
how do we control it? Well, the 6525 chip occupies a few bytes in
the C64’s memory map. There are only two memory locations that are
relevant to us. The first is 56579. This location sets the direction for all 8
lines on the user port. Because it is an 8-bit register, each bit
represents one of the 8 data lines. So, If you set them one of them to a zero
then that line becomes an input line so that we can read the state of that line. If you set it to a one, then it becomes an
output line that you can control. For our purposes we need it to be an output
line. In fact, just to make things easy, we can
set them all to be output lines by storing the value 255 in this memory location. The other memory location we need to worry
about is 56577. This is where actual reading and writing happens. Since everything is set to output mode, we
can actually write an 8-bit value to this register, and each bit represents the state
of each pin. Let me demonstrate this for you. So I’ve got this edge connector that fits
the C64 user port. I like to print out little labels and attach
them to the sides so that there is no question as to which pins I’m connecting things to. I also like to run a spare piece of wire through
these holes on the side so that I have some way to pull the connector back out of the
machine when I’m done with it. Now I’m going to temporarily attach an alligator
clip to the ground and another one to PB0. Now I’m going to carefully stick this in
the back of my Commodore 64. Next I’m going to turn on the C64 and type
POKE 56579,255 which will turn all of the user port pins to output mode. Now if we look at the voltmeter you’ll see
it’s reading .068 volts, which means the pin is being held low. Now I’m going to type POKE 56577,1, which
should set that particular pin to a high state. And you’ll see the voltage on that pin jumped
up to almost 5 volts now, so that is the high state. OK, so now that we know that works, I’ll
use that pull wire I put in there to yank this out. Next I’m going to wire up one of my LCD
screens to the user port. So I’ll get to soldering. And here we go, a finished product. So I wrote this little test program in BASIC
that will send some simple commands to the LCD, and allow you to type on the screen. So the first thing I’ll do is press 5 to
set the interface length to 4-bit mode. Then I’ll press 4 to send the command to
enable the display. However, this is a multi-part command, so
my program will also ask if you want the display on then if you want the cursor on, and if
you want the cursor to blink. So I said yes to all 3. Unfortunately, it didn’t work. So, I played around with this screen for hours
trying to figure out, you know, did I connect something wrong? You know, what did I do wrong? You know, things don’t always go to plan. I actually pulled this screen out of an old
piece of equipment a long time ago, and to be honest, I’ve never even seen this screen
work before. So, for all I know, there’s something wrong
with it. So, I decided to pull the screen out of my
last contraption with the toggle switches and wire that up the exact same way. However, I knew something was wrong the moment
I turned on the power to the C64. The screen displayed garbage like this. Oddly enough, when I ran my program it actually
did initialize the screen and I was able to type out some characters, even though it was
clear the screen was behaving oddly. Unfortunately, even when I connected this
screen back to regular power away from the C64, it still now displays that garbage on
the screen permanently. So, I spent the next entire day going over
every connection and every detail, checking everything with a voltmeter, checking for
continuity, seeing if I could have possibly wired something up wrong. I simply couldn’t find anything that I did
wrong.. In fact, the really frustrating part about
this is that I’ve done this experiment before about 10 years ago and it worked fine. So, I know it will work. But, the only thing I really did different
back then was I did power the screen externally. And the reason I did that back then was because
I was using a backlit screen and I didn’t think the user port on the Commodore 64 could
supply enough miliamps to run both the screen and the backlight. So I had one more screen handy, and I decided
to wire it up so that it gets its 5 volts of power from this USB charger instead of
the C64. I also wired up the backlight. Now, just for a comparison, I decided to fire
it up here on the bench with just the power and nothing else. And it appears to work as expected. This is exactly what it should look like with
power only. And the contrast control is working. So, time to test it. I unplugged my little SD card reader for the
time being, since I didn’t have that 10 years ago when I did this experiment. Then I’ll plug in the screen. So, the first thing I want to do is just try
powering the screen on again before I even turn the C64 on. And already something appears wrong. I can’t see the two lines on the screen
and the contrast control isn’t working. But it didn’t take long before I noticed
that the main ground wire had come loose. So I needed to go resolder that. OK, so this is getting more and more tense…
this is my last screen. If I fry this one, I’ll have to wait a week
while I order some new ones online. However, things went even further south. Now, for some reason, my C64 is dead. I mean, totally dead. So, things were not looking good. I mean, I couldn’t figure out how I could
have fried my C64. Nothing I did should have been able to cause
that. The only wires connected to the C64 are these
here. And the sheer fact that I was able to send
characters to the last screen confirms that these are all hooked to the right place because
if any one of them were not, it wouldn’t have worked. And I couldn’t see how any of these connections
could damage a screen or a C64. So I took the C64 apart and started troubleshooting. And I found the answer. I didn’t catch this on video, but when I
checked the voltage on the motherboard, it found that it was reading 8 and half volts. It’s supposed to be 5! And, so as soon as I saw that, I shut the
computer off and didn’t turn it back on because I didn’t want to risk further damaging
any of the chips. Hence, why I didn’t catch it on video. However, I measured the voltage on the 5 volt
line of the power supply and look what I got. Dang! 11 and a half volts! So this is unfortunately a very common failure,
if not the MOST common failure of all Commodore 64 problems. The power supply will start sending too much
voltage when it goes bad and thus frying the rest of the computer along with it. And I never actually checked the power output
coming out of the user port, but obviously it was way more than 5 volts and that was
what was frying my screens. So this solves yet another mystery! A few weeks ago I started work on an episode
about speech synthesizer cartridges. and during filming the episode, my cartridge just died. It quite working completely and I couldn’t
figure out why. So, I had to put that video on hold while
I tried to find another working speech synthesizer cartridge. And, so I started the LCD video earlier than
expected. So that’s why I had to run to Fry’s to
buy those parts rather than ordering them online, which would have been much cheaper. Well, now I know what killed my speech synthesizer
cartridge, and apparently this whole thing is just a big coincidence and didn’t have
anything to do with the experiment I was working on. On the bright side, since I was powering the
3rd screen externally, hopefully it survived the encounter. So Brought out my Commodore 64c. I’m fairly confident at this point that
I didn’t do anything wrong, so even though I’m nervous, I’m going to proceed with
the experiment using this computer. Of course, I got a different power supply
and confirmed it was outputting the correct voltage before plugging it. OK, so the screen is powered on and looks
normal. And it is connected to my C64c. I’m going to power on the 64c and so far
everything looks good. So, now I’m going to initialize the screen,
and it looks like that worked. Now I’ll adjust the contrast. So now I’ll try the little clock program
that I wrote. Of course, I wrote all of this in BASIC so
it is kind of slow, but you can see that it does work. By the way, in theory it should be possible
to connect up to 3 screens to the user port. The way you would do that is all three screens
would share the exact same 4 data lines. They would also share the register select. However, PB2 enable would go to one screen,
and then you would use PB1 fo the next screen, and then PB0 for the third screen. That way each screen has its own enable line. So, every screen will completely ignore whatever
is on the data bus until it’s very specific enable line is raised high. I should also mention that you can connect
a character LCD like this to an older style MS-DOS computer if it has a parallel port. The concept is almost identical to what I’ve
just shown you using the parallel port on the Commodore 64. However, the PC doesn’t really have any
easy way for you to go control the registers and stuff of the parallel port like the Commodore
64 does. In fact, that’s one of the things I love
about working with the old 8-bit computers like these is that you have so much control
over the hardware and you can just boot it right up to BASIC and just type a few commands
and just turn pins high and low and stuff like that, it’s just really convenient. OK, so I had also planned in this episode
to show you not just connecting it to the user port, but also connecting a screen to
the cartridge port of the Commodore 64. Unfortunately, with all of the delays and
problems I had earlier in the episode, I decided that is going to be split off into a part
3. But, I think its really important that you
see a character LCD plugged into the cartridge port and there’s good reason why, which
you’ll understand when you see. So, stick around for that.

Hard Work – Motivational and Inspirational Video (School Project)

I was born in the wrong place at the wrong
time I grew up surrounded by poverty and misery
My only way to escape from this nasty reality was by reading my old inspirational books So I started working immensely hard in the fields, all day
And studying next to the light of a tiny candle, all night
I always love to surround myself with trees, cause they taught me so much
they taught me to always be grounded but never stop reaching for the sky
I adored visiting this old humble village on the coast
cause I used to find all my answers in its silence
And its authenticity taught me to always be who I am no matter what
But what made me feel like I was in heaven was sitting next to the sea to whom I told
all my secrets, thoughts and hopes It made me realize that life was just like
the sea as vast as I could think
and as deep as I could imagine I never wanted to waste time measuring my
life because I wouldn’t succeed
instead I wanted to explore life and get to the very deep the reach it’s pearls Some people dream of success, but I woke up
and I worked hard for it My life was full of difficulties and drama
Just like EVERYBODY else But I worked hard
and I hustled To get where I am today
This state of immeasurable success I learned so much
And I worked so hard I dreamed, I believed AND I achieved
There were obstacles There were doubters
And there mistakes But with hard work there are no limits …

Breaking Ground: St Kilda Road tram occupation

We are here today at Anzac Station undergoing
a major occupation to realign the new tram tracks. This occupation is necessary to join
the north and the south station box that is under St Kilda Road. The station box is 300 metres in length, 30
metres in width and 22 metres deep. We are working 24 hours a day to reduce disruption
to the road and tram network, demolishing the track, overheads, wires and road. This
will allow the installation and construction of the new track and road. The construction of the acoustic shed behind
me is aimed at reducing construction impacts such as noise, light and dust and is ongoing
throughout the occupation. We built as much of the road and the tram
alignment as we could before the occupation to minimise disruption to the local community.
We worked closely with Yarra Trams and VicRoads to ensure a successful occupation.

Simple Modular Work Tables (WITH MAGNETS!) // Woodworking How To

Hey, I’m Bob and I like to make stuff. Today, I’m going to make some really simple work tables with some really cool features This is my new shop. Now, I haven’t done anything down here except move my stuff in and just put it against the walls So I have a ton of work to do. I’ve got lighting to do. I’ve got walls to cover I’ve got electrical to run and lots and lots of organization But the first thing I need to do is build a new workbench. Last week on my live stream on twitch, I decided to have a collaborative design session I talked to everybody in the chat and told them I wanted to make a big work table and asked for ideas So we all worked together and came up with a really cool idea. In my shop I wanted a big table to work on but I also kind of didn’t want a big table because they’re kind of hard to work Around and sometimes they just eat up a lot of space, so together we came up with the idea for the Voltron of workbenches It’s a few smaller tables that will connect together to make one big one when you need it. It’s going to be pretty cool I’m excited about it Let’s get started. The construction for this table is extremely simple, and I designed it in a way So that there’s only a few different sizes of 2×4 to cut. Let’s talk about the materials I’ve got three sheets of half-inch MDF You could use something else if you wanted to but MDF is nice and sturdy and very flat I’ve also got a 4×8 sheet of eight inch hard board This is sometimes called masonite – it’s a really thin inexpensive cover to put on the top of the table So if you mess it up, you can easily take it off and put down a new sheet to have a nice clean tabletop I’ve also got a whole bunch of locking casters and some spray paint There’s a few more things that go into this down the road, and I’ll show you those when we get to them But right now let’s put together the frame. I’m going to end up making three tables and between them I need a whole bunch of pieces of 2×4 cut to length. In fact I need 20 pieces cut to the exact same length I’m going to set up a stop block on my miter saw so I can just put the pieces in chop it and move on To the next piece and get through them really quickly There’s a really quick and easy way to do that because my miter saw is fixed in place And it’s not going to slide back and forth. First I’m going to measure out the length that I need on a board and mark it with a pencil. Then I just make sure that That mark is lined up exactly where it needs to cut with the blade and while I’ve got the workpiece held firmly in place I lay another scrap piece of wood right against the end of it and driving some screws to the table So now every time I put a 2×4 up against that piece I know it’s exactly the right distance from the blade Then I just have to make a whole bunch of cuts Just a few minutes later, I’ve got all the two-by-fours cut in case you were curious. I use sixteen eight-foot 2x4s Which is a lot But there’s only this much waste left from all of those pieces I cut the 2x4s into three different sizes one for the legs one for the long sides and one for the short sides and Setting up a stop block like that makes it very quick and easy and makes sure that all of your pieces are exactly the same Length. Next up, I’m just going to screw them together and make the frames for the top and bottom to make the frame I’m just going to screw these together end to end It’s really simple But the important thing here is to make sure that you get these pieces overlaid in the correct direction You want to make sure that they’re laid out this way so that the final dimensions of the table will be 24 by 48 I’m going to drive some two and a half inch screws from the outside of these long boards into the short board and make sure that I’ve pre-drilled all of these holes before I screw them in Since the holes are so close to the end of the board if you don’t pre-drill them there’s a good chance you’re going to split the wood Now I’ve got three sets of frames ready to go. Each one the smaller tables has two rectangles and then the large table has two big squares. At this point all of these frames are very flexible in one direction You can see that they flex a lot here And that’s okay now because these are going to be tied together a lot better once the MDF goes on But the next step is to tie the top frame to the bottom frame and you do that by screwing in the leg piece Those get screwed on to the face here where you see the end grain of the 2×4 and not the other face It’s kind of important later on Those are going to get screwed on just like I did with all the other construction making sure that they are flush with the top of the top frame and the bottom of the bottom frame and when I do that It’s really important that I don’t screw those in where I’m going to be installing the magnets later on down the road All the frames are put together now They’re ready to put on the mdF on the top and on the bottom shelves, but before I do that I’m going to put on some casters. That mdF is going to make these things a lot heavier So since I’m going to have to flip them over I’m going to add the casters now Flip them over and then add the sheets. I got 12 locking casters each one of these is rated for about 125 pounds a piece. I got enough to go on each corner of each table And I’m just going to screw them right into the two by fours because these are made of two-by-fours which are not always perfectly straight some of these joints are not super-tight and that causes these edges to Not necessarily be exactly 48 or 24 inches They’re usually within 1/16 and then eight at the most, and that’s not a big deal in this case So I’m going to measure the outside dimensions of each one of these tables Individually and cut a piece of MDF to fit exactly edge to edge. Once I get does in place I’m going to pre-drill and countersink the holes to drive screws in directly into the studs through the mdF I want to make sure that those screw heads are flush with the surface because there’s another coating going on top after. After I get Those tops put on I’ll use the same process to add the bottom shelves We got that first corner in and it is square But as we turn this around you can see that the other sides do not always match up And that’s because the 2×4 frame It’s just not square by itself But there’s a way around that we attach the first corner in that direction and now we’re going to attach this Opposite corner by forcing it into place Bending the frame and driving in the screw. By putting these Opposite two corners in place correctly with the corner the other two corners are going to be really really close to where they need to be Here’s the little thing I didn’t expect That four by eight sheet of hardboard that I got for the top of this is not actually four by eight Instead a 48 inches wide it’s forty seven and a half inches I don’t know why but that forces me to have a little bit of a gap on two sides of this It’s not a huge deal, but next time I go to replace this top I’ll probably use eighth inch plywood that way I know that the final sheet is actually four by eight I’m going to go ahead and screw this top on in the same way dis countersink some screws in a couple of places to hold It down but actually decided that I’m going to move the sheet so that all of the extra gap is on one side rather than split between Two sides and the reason for that is so that the one side that has the big gap on it is going to back up To the table saw as the out feet the other three sides will be all the way to the edge and then when I line Them up with the other tables there won’t be a big seam for these smaller tables I’m going to use some smaller screws to attach the hard board just to the mDF and not through it into the frame Because these mdF tops are going to need to hinge I’m going to use some really short screws for this and I have to countersink through the top of this But the material is very thin the countersink will go right through it And then you’ll end up with too big of a hole if you’re not careful We’ve got some more mdf to put down here on the bottom shelf So I’m going to lay this in place drive in some screws Then flip the whole cart over and add another piece in this section and screw it on as well Now comes a really cool part getting these tables to stick together like Voltron We’re going to use magnets for that in fact really big rare-Earth magnets these are neodymium magnets And they are pretty strong and pretty big you don’t necessarily have to go this big But I wanted to make sure that they had plenty of strength in each corner of each table we’re going to put a magnet in one face and a washer in the other face and we’re always going to put them in the Same configuration, so that anytime this corner hits a different corner on a different table They will match up The magnet of the other table will always hit this washer and the washer of the other table will always hit this magnet I measured down the same distance on both sides of these corners and the same distance from the outer edge So that the center point of this one is the same place as the center point of that So when two corners meet the center of these two things should be the same and they should line up. On each corner of each Table, I’m going to make the exact same markings I’m going to use a forstner bit to bore out a bigger hole to put the magnet in because it’s pretty thick the washer I’m just going to screw in on the face so it’s a little bit proud of the surface that will help it connect to the Magnet that it’s trying to reach. It’s just a matter of screwing those in and this corner is good to go now I’m going to add it to three more corners And then we’re going to do a little test to see if the two tables will stick together And if they don’t it’s okay because we can always add another set of magnets and washers below these that will increase the grab strength on each one of these corners Next I’m going to put the tops on to these little tables So that they can hinge open and I can get to that storage that I built-in onto the inside this is going to be hinged on this back edge with something called a piano hinge or a continuous hinge It’s really just one long hinge that runs from end to end. These are really easy to install I mean, it’s basically just a hinge but in this case I want to make sure that it’s recessed a little bit underneath the top so that this side of the top is it lifted I want the whole top to be as flat as possible to make that recess I’m going to use a straight bit in my router And then use an edge guide on the router as well to run along this back side and cut away just enough material so that The Hinge fits down into it and is flush with the top To make sure that I get the right depth on the bit I just put the hinge right on top of the router and then adjust it so that the tip of the bit is flush with the top of the Hinge My line up the outside Of this hinge with the outside Edge because I don’t want it to protrude and get in the way of the tables connecting So I’m going to try to get it completely lined up and flush out here, and then punch some holes to start the screws That hinge will help it attach and go up and down But it’s kind of heavy because it’s a solid piece of mdF so to assist that a little bit I’m going to use these gas struts These are really inexpensive ones that I found but they can get very expensive so just be sure to look for the cheap ones unless you want to spend a lot of money. These install really easily on the Inside they have two points of contact and you can twist them However, you need to to make sure that they can connect to the two sides that you need to connect just follow the instructions They’re really easy you screw in the two pieces snap these into place And you’re good to go. The hinge and the gas struts help it to open and close kind of safely and easily but you also Need a simple way to open it. To do that I’m going to use the trim router to cut a slot all along this front edge So you have a place for your fingers to go to grab the top That’s as far as I’m going to take the build on these tables right now. There are some things I want to add in the future But I want to use them in the shop first before I add those things and while I tell you about those things Let’s see the tables in action. Work tables unite. One of the big things I definitely want to add to these tables in the future is a shelf underneath at least the smaller tables. The large table is going To have a shop Vac and a compressor underneath it, so it doesn’t need a shelf but the smaller ones would be Awesome to have a shelf to hold power tools so that they could be ready to use anytime I need them for them to be ready to use that means those tables also have to have some sort of a power source under them, so Eventually I’m going to add a power strip underneath the table somewhere. First I want to use these in the shop to make sure that I don’t put those power strips in a place that gets in the Way, but eventually I think it will be mounted underneath the table top or on the inside of the leg It’d be really nice to have a jigsaw or sander They’re just ready to go I could run an extension cord over to the table plug it in and get to work So I’m going to add the shelf I’m going to add the power and also on the smaller tables I need to add some sort of a layer on the inside of that storage so things don’t roll around when I’m rolling the table Around I’ll probably use some sort of a foam mat or something like that I’m not exactly sure yet But if you wanted to get really fancy you could always put in Kaizen foam or something like that and cut out spots for specific Tools, I probably won’t do that But who knows. I figured out another big thing on these while I was putting them together And I wanted to kind of warn you about this I tried really hard to get two by fours that were nice and straight, but even those are not perfectly straight So when you put things together like this not all of the faces and not all of the edges are going to line up Typically that wouldn’t matter very much but when you’re trying to get two magnets to stick together They have to actually be close enough to grab so there are a few corners on these tables that are bowed Just enough to where they don’t actually grab the magnet I mean the good thing is here that all the sides of all the tables connect So you can just spin them around to find a better connection but it’s just something to think about try to make all of your corners and your faces as square as Possible so that the magnets and the washers can line up there you go some really simple Sturdy work benches that can be customized to be whatever you need in your shop I want to say a big thanks to my community on twitch who helped me Brainstorm the ideas for these table gave me lots of great ideas if you want to come hang out with this go to Twitch TV Slash I like to make stuff. I stream every week. It’s a great community. It’s a lot of fun I’m really glad to finally be able to bring you a project from my brand new shop I’m going to have a lot more videos about setting the shop up and getting it ready to actually make better videos So that’ll be coming soon, but in the meantime I’ve got lots of other projects, and you may be interested in so be sure to check those out And I’ve got some new home renovation videos that are going to be listed right here Don’t forget to subscribe. Thanks for watching I’ll see you next time Also on the smaller tables, I got to put something on the inside of that cabinet cat drawer and storage storage

Job Simulator Gameplay – Office Worker – HTC Vive

(Job Bot) Hello, human. Grab a cartridge from the tray and let’s get to work. (Job Bot) There’s never a dull day in the old cubicle farm. (Job Bot) Hello, human! Welcome to an accurate simulation of *monotone voice* office worker. (Job Bot) Take a look at this board for instructions. (Job Bot) Workers would traditionally start their day with an addictive liquid stimulant. (Random Bot) D’oh, my glasses! (Job Bot) Also, workers would ingest a frosted sugar torus for sustenance. *nom* *nom* *nom* *nom* *nom* (Job Bot) Now you’re ready to start your day. It’s time for *monotone voice* computer. The computer is the most important facet of the office, with humans and safety being the close second and third. (Random Bot) Ugh, that almost hurt! *telephone ringing* (Bot on Phone) Hello, can you get me line zero, please? Zero- (Job Bot) E-Mail was an inefficient form of communication, popularized in the mid 1990’s. (Job Bot) Ahh, the freedom of ‘inbox: zero.’ (Random Bot) Ooh, a message! (Random Bot) Hey, that almost- almost hurt! (Random Bot) Whoo, hoo-hoo! (Random Bot) Why is it not five o’clock yet!? (Job Bot) Here comes Supervisor Bot. Better look busy! (Supervisor Bot) Okay everybody, let’s make- let’s make some *monotone voice* business. Johnson, I’m counting *monotone voice* paradigm shift. Those *monotone voice* optimizations? (Johnson) Uhh, you… can… count on me. (Supervisor Bot) That’s what I like to hear. Hey, you! You’ve been doing a *monotone voice* good job. I’ve been thinking about giving you a *monotone voice* promotion. In fact, if nothing goes wrong in the next ten seconds, the job’s yours. *typing noises* You see, that’s why I like you! Always workin’ hard to climb that ladder! Take this, the new position’s yours! (Job Bot) Good job, human! You’re climbing the ranks. And here comes Boss Bot. Looks like he’s got more work for you! (Boss Bot) *boring voice* Hello, human. I am Boss Bot. I noticed you’ve logged in, so I’m here to give you your first task of the day. We need to bring some new bots on board, so look through your resumes and find two bots to hire. (Job Bot) You heard them, make sure you pick the best bots for the job. (Bandit Bot) Ah, this is the happiest day of my life! (Tourist Bot) Can’t believe it’s my first day! (Random Bot) Hey, that almost hurt! Hey, what the-!? (Boss Bot) Have you seen the latest sales report? This isn’t good. Load up the old spreadsheet program and fix these numbers. Wow, you cook those books like a professional *monotone voice* gourmet chef. (Random Bot) Hey, that almost hurt! (Job Bot) It’s time for lunch. At mid-day, humans would interact with primitive robots known as *monotone voice* vending machines *normal voice* to obtain food. Looks *monotone voice* delicious. *normal voice* Enjoy your meal, human. (Coworker Bot) Hey coworker, can you get me a *monotone voice* candy bar? (Job Bot) Looks like it’s stuck. Sadly, this was common with early generations of robots. (Coworker Bot) Thanks, coworker! (Coworker Bot) Hey coworker, over here! Get on your computer and check out these hilarious pictures! (Random Bot) Come on! (Boss Bot) Hello, human. I’m looking forward to your presentation today on all of the *monotone voice* business *normal voice* that we did in the last week. (Job Bot) So Boss Bot wants you to do a presentation. You’ll need to make some slides. Time to learn about an ancient human technique called *monotone voice* winging it. Try using this program in your computer. (Random Bot) Ooh, a message! *nom* *nom* HWAAAAAAAAAAAGH (Boss Bot) So… you ready to go through this presentation? Here’s the clicker. Use the button to go through your slides. *pleased crowd noises* *cheesy trumpet sounds* *boom* (Random Bot) Well, what do you know? (Boss Bot) Nice- Nice job, hu- That was very *monotone voice* business. (Random Bot) Come on! (Coworker Bot) Hey, human. Bot number *monotone voice* 10110 *normal voice* is retiring tomorrow. We wanted to give him a parting gift. Everyone’s pitching in. Why don’t you give me something you’d like to contribute? That’s how you want them to remember their old job? Anyway, do you think you can type up a quick card to go with this? It would make it a lot more *monotone voice* personal. *typing noises* That looks good. Hand it to me. I’ll handle the rest. Thanks for helping out! (Random Bot) Hey, what the-!? (Boss Bot) Uhh, things aren’t going too well. We need to find a couple bots we can let go. Take a look at these employee evaluations. (Fancy Bot) First, my stapler jams. And now, this? (Job Bot) In the office, coworkers would converse around the liquid dispenser. (Random Bot 1) Man, did you hear that *monotone voice* Bot #2272 *normal voice* got fired? Man, that’s *monotone voice* notable. (Random Bot 2) Hey Bill, did you see the *monotone voice* sports event *normal voice* on TV last night? It’s pretty *monotone voice* touchdown. (Random Bot) Who threw this? Stand up. Who did it? (Random Bot 1) Check out these photos of my many children! (Random Bot 2) Do you bear children, human? (Random Bot 1) Aww, now isn’t that- isn’t that sweet? (Random Bot) Hey, what the-!? (Boss Bot) Yeah… hey, look, I’ve got some papers I need you to shred It has to be you for… legal reasons, I don’t really wanna get into it… here. Just look in the case. Shred everything. Just get rid of it. *nom* Uhh… see… here’s the other thing. I just found out that our insurance fully says(?) *SHREDDING NOISES* that you actually can’t have this much stuff in your cubicle. So uhh… you’re going to need to get rid of some of that too. Alright, that’ll do. Turn off the shredder when you’re done. That was a close one. Alright, carry on. Nothing to see here. (Police Bot) Right there, hold it! Don’t let that bot get away! (Random Bot) Hey! That was a pre- (CEO Bot) Hello, human. I am CEO Bot. Here’s the thing: Boss Bot needs to go away for a while, and you’ve been doing a really *monotone voice* good *normal voice* job. So I’d like to offer you a promotion. (Coworker Bots) Happy *monotone voice* promotion *normal voice* to *monotone voice* human Happy *monotone voice* promotion *normal voice* to *monotone voice* human (Coworker Bot) Now make a wish and blow out the candles! (Coworker Bot) Sorry, human. Looks like there’s not enough cake for you. (Coworker Bot) Here you go, human! I got you a *monotone voice* present. *balloon blowing noises* (Random Bot) D’oh, my glasses! (Random Bot) Hey, that almost hurt! (CEO Bot) Now that you’re the boss of this department, I’ll leave it to you to do the honors. *air horn* (Coworker Bot) Yaaay! (Coworker Bot) Woohoo! It’s time to go home! Good job, everyone! Let’s get outta here before the boss tries to stop us! (Coworker Bot) Whoo! Yeah! (Coworker Bot) Wahoo! (Coworker Bot) Haha! (Coworker Bot) Great, it’s five o’clock! Work is over! (CEO Bot) Yeah, I’m gonna have to ask you to come in on *monotone voice* Saturday. (Job Bot) Well, there you have it, human! I hope this has given you a better idea of what it was once like to *monotone voice* office worker. Well, you know how to get back to the museum if you want to. I’ll just be hanging out here while you do whatever you want.

Business Pig – children’s book read aloud – The Reading Project

hi guys it’s Yonatan welcome to the
reading project are you guys ready for my next book let’s start
business Pig words and pictures by Indra Zulu one morning at the sunshine
statuary for farm animals jellybean dasa gave birth to a litter of piglets right
away you know volunteers noticed something unusual what kind of pig is
that well I believe what we have here is again the wine business pig well let’s
call him Jasper Jasper was very different from his siblings he hated
playing in the mud and he refused to root for grub’s acres and other tasty
things the way that other pigs did everyone at the situating flat Oh Jasper
but that didn’t keep him from feeling out of place the volunteers decided to
create a space just for him he liked it very much
they all saw it and help with the bookkeeping the whole barnyard but
turnout for his meetings to show their support Dell not everyone appreciated
but just for my to offer the chicken continually refused to take an interest
in his flowcharts and the goods it’s his business card worst of all no matter how
many charts presented or as amazed he handed out expounding on why he would
make a great pet he was passed up for adoption
it was quite disheartening it really was but Jasper was a smart outgoing
proactive pick in not one what life gets him down for long he formed the plan
birthday approaches the media lifestyles business Pig pet of the future then he
enlisted the help of some of his contacts he even used some old-fashioned
tried-and-true methods to get his message out satisfied with a job well
done Jasper took some time to relax and
wonder if all his efforts would pay off immediately just Versailles results
someone soon the visited harm someone who did not look like the average person
planning to adopt a forever farm pet he was pleased to see she was actually
studying his charts she wanted to exchange a business card with him when
she requested his resume and run it through it
the interview went well but upper management had to be consulted
luckily upper management was also impressed with Jasper’s credentials
everything added up the offer was made in the contract was signed it was a
perfect fit the head thank you so much for watching do you also want to meet my
new pet I’ll introduce you my new pet pickles
next week can’t wait for that see you next time bye