DIY Clothes! 5 DIY T Shirt Projects – Cool!

In this tutorial you’ll learn how to recycle
five T shirts from boring to absolutely amazing and unique.
Hey guys! After posting my do it yourself shorts tutorial many of you asked for more
clothes DIYs. So today we’re making shirts, tops and all that cool stuff. I’ll show you
how to transform five plain boring t shirts into fabulous tops that you’ll adore. I promise.
Want to see it for yourself? Let’s do it! Let’s start with this spiral dyed fringe t-shirt.
You’ll need a shirt, fabric spray paint, elastics, scissors and beads. First we are going to
color the shirt using a spray paint. Place the shirt on the flat surface. Locate the
center of your shirt and pinch it there. This will be the center of your spiral. Now start
twisting the fabric like so. You can also use the palm of your hand. Then start feathering
the remaining parts into a spiral with your other hand until you get a nice little cinnamon
roll. Mmm… now I am getting really hungry. On with the shirt – we need to secure the
shape with elastics, so that our roll shape stays in place while painting. Tuck the shirt
parts peeking out under your elastics like so. I want to color two opposite fourths of
the circle in pink and the other two in blue. Hold your stencil over the shirt so you have
only one fourth of the shirt exposed and spray the color on. I started with pink for the
first fourth of the shirt, now I am moving on to the blue spray paint. Then go in with
pink again and lastly with blue on the last quarter. Using the same stencil cover the
shirt and spray on the blue paint. Spray applies the color in a wider circle, therefore it’s
necessary to use a stencil if you’re working with more than one color. You can be quite
generous because spray paint doesn’t tend to leak throughout the fabric. You can also
just pour some paint on the t shirt for a higher pigmentation. When you are happy, cut
the elastics and here’s the result. As you can see the edges are much sharper when tie
dying with spray paint instead of usual fabric paint.
If you want more colored stripes, just go ahead and tie the shirt into a roll again.
Pinch it at the same spot as before, twist, feather the shirt, secure with elastics and
start spraying. Since I want to add just pink color this time I’ll spray a pink spray
paint over the entire shirt both, on the front and at the back. Cut the elastics and now
the spiral design is even more pronounced. I love how it looks! Like a cool skeleton
spiral! Finally we can proceed to the fringe part.
Start by cutting along the bottom part of the shirt to make it a bit more cropped and
to get rid of the edge. For the cute fringe make narrow cuts vertically approximately
half of an inch apart. You can go as high as you want with it, I decided to make about
four inches long cuts. You can cut both, the front and the back of the shirt in one go.
This way you get equal strings on both sides and you finish quicker. Next we need to pull
each string, this will gather the material and won’t look that freshly cut. Before
we start tying the strings I recommend placing a piece of paper inside the shirt to separate
the front and the back strings. We’ll decorate fringes with colorful beads. I decided for
lilac, blue, white and yellow ones. Take your first and fourth string – It doesn’t mater
where you start and thread on three random colored beads. Make a knot to keep them in
place like so. Then take your third string go through this loop and pair it with the
string number six. Add beads and make a knot. As you see, you need to have two strings between
the two you tie together. So now you must take the fifth and the eighth one, put the
beads on and make a knot. Continue tying the strings with beads all along the front and
then turn the shirt around and continue the same steps at the back. Take two strings,
thread on the beads and tie a knot. In the end you will get this cool cross tied fringe
that I absolutely adore. You could just make a normal fringe, maybe add some beads to each
string, but I think this cross tied fringe looks even better. My shirt had a wide neckline
so I like to wear it off the shoulder. If you cut the fringe shorter you can totally
make it appropriate for school. It goes great with jeans and will give that fun and carefree
accent to your outfit. Next we are making this adorable cat shirt.
We’ll need a shirt, fabric paint, container for color, sponge applicators or a paint brush,
scissors, self-adhesive paper, pencil, a piece of cardboard and a printed shape or caption
of your choice. You can print out words, smiley face, flower, animal, you name it. I chose
to go for a How cute caption and a kitten on the front, while painting kitty paws on
the back. It will look spectacular! First we have to cut out the kitten, the how cute
caption and the paws. I want to have three different paws sizes so I have to cut all
three out. If you want to have all one size, it’s enough to just cut it once. You can
put any caption you like on your shirt. For example a real name of your pet if you have
one. When all the shapes are cut, place them on a self-adhesive paper, outline them with
a pencil and cut them out. The important part for us is the paper embracing our shapes.
So I like to make one cut to reach the shape, a cat in this case and then cut it out in
one go. In the end you need to seal the cut with a tape or a piece of self-adhesive paper.
Do exactly the same for the caption – one cut to reach the letter, cut the letters out
and seal the cuts. See how we get a perfect caption stencil. And lastly make few paws
stencils, I made two big paws, two middle sized and two small paw stencils.
Before you start painting, place a piece of cardboard inside the shirt. This will prevent
the color transferring from the front to the back of your shirt. Stick the How Cute stencil
on the shirt and don’t forget to place a small dot inside the letter o and e. Time for my
favorite part – painting. Dip the sponge or a brush into the paint. Always apply the
paint from the edge towards the center to get a sharp and neat edge. I am using pink
and green fabric paint for this shirt. I decided to color the word “how” and a “dot” in pink
and the word cute in green. Normally the fabric paint looks best on white fabric, but you
can also buy paint meant for darker fabrics. So if your shirt isn’t white or some other
light color, make sure to use dark fabric paint. I applied two coats of paint and now
we can remove the stencil. First I am removing the two dots using tweezers. Then I carefully
peeled off the big one. Look how beautiful it is, simply perfect! Let’s move on to the
kitten. Stick the stencil in the middle of the shirt below the caption. When choosing
a shape for your shirt I recommend going for a simple one. This way it’s much easier to
make a stencil and color it neatly. Also, keep in mind that if you are using one color,
you will only get a shape of an image, so make sure that the shape is representative
enough. Once the paint on the front is completely dry, flip the shirt around and place the paws
on the back. I decided to place them diagonally starting with two smaller on the bottom and
then bigger on top. I am making three pink and three green paws, starting with the pink
one on top. Again, apply the paint from the edge towards the center for a neat result.
When you are done with the first paw, go ahead and peel away the stencil right away. It’s
much easier to remove it when the color is still wet. The edge will still be sharp and
precise. I have been obsessed with fabric paint lately, I love how you can transform
plain pieces in something unique and creative. You can also make a shirt for your friend’s
birthday, there is nothing better than a personalized present. And in case you were wondering, fabric
paint is completely washable, so you will be able to use your amazing customized clothes
for many years. Last paw stencil to peel off and I am all done with painting! I am absolutely
in love with this design, especially the paws on the back! We are not yet finished with
this shirt, no, no, I also want to cut it into a muscle T. Cut away the bottom edge,
I didn’t want to go too short. And cut away the sleeves making larger holes for the arms
like so. Give all the edges a good tuck and we are all done with this gorgeous top. How
adorable it is! I like wearing muscle Tees with colorful bandeaus underneath, so here
I went for the pink one. I finished this cute girly look with some distressed jean shorts
and pink sneakers. For all you edgy girls I’m creating this
cool American flag top with side cut outs and chains. You will need a black t shirt,
scissors, chains, black thread and a needle, star studs, self adhesive paper, masking tape,
red and white fabric paint, container for paint, sponge applicators or a paint brush
and pliers. Lay your shirt flat. Cut away the bottom edge
to get rid of that sewed part, but you still want to keep the shirt long… Next cut all
along the sides of the shirt. Start where the sleeves start and continue cutting straight
along. But before you reach the bottom start cutting towards the corner, making a curved
cut to the outside like so. Fold the shirt in half and cut the other side by following
the edge of the already cut side. This way you get a symmetrical cut on both sides!
Get your chains, I am using two different sizes of silver chains, and sew them on the
sides of the shirt. The chains will hold the back and the front of the top together and
will also add a cool detail to the design. Using pliers cut about 3 inches long chain
pieces. A combination of thinner and thicker chains will look awesome. Take your thread
and a needle and make a knot. Now we’re ready to start sewing. Flip the shirt inside
out because we want to attach the chain on the inside of the shirt. Make a first stitch
with the needle going inside and then up again. Lead the needle through the chain loop, and
make another stitch like so. Make two knots to secure the work. We have sewed one side
of the chain to the front fabric of the top, so now we have to sew the other chain side
to the back fabric of the top. Repeat the steps making sure that knots and the chain
end will be on the inside of your shirt. You can buy chains like these in a craft store
or you can use pieces of old necklaces that you don’t wear any more. I never throw away
my old jewelry because there are so many parts you can re-use. Beads, charms, chains all
that can be used for your future DIY projects. Cut another three equally long chain pieces.
My first chain was thicker, so now I’m taking this thinner one with a cross. This is actually
a part of an old necklace I don’t wear anymore. Also, I recommend checking the jewelry sections
on sale, you will definitely find a lot of super cheap DIY supplies there. A necklace
with a lot of chains will be definitely cheaper than buying a chain in a craft store. You
can then use it for anything you want. I am keeping about half of an inch space between
each chain. I went for 4 chains to begin with and this is how they will look when the shirt
is on. Pretty epic! Time to sew four chains on the other side of the shirt as well, again
two thicker and two thinner ones! I used the clip to mark where I want my first chain to
be. I decided to add a couple of chains more on each side lower on the shirt. This is why
I love making my own shirts so much. You don’t need to have the entire shirt design completely
planned from the beginning. Just start cutting and creating and then try your shirt on and
you’ll see if there’s something missing. You’ll get so many awesome ideas along the
way! My last chain is on so I can flip the shirt again and pull firmly all the cut edges.
See how cool the sides of our shirt look! Absolutely amazing!
For the American flag start by placing a piece of cardboard inside the shirt to prevent color
transferring on the back. Take a rectangle piece of self adhesive or normal paper in
the desired size of your flag and stick it on the shirt where you want the flag to be.
Stick four masking tape pieces all around it, and then peel the self adhesive paper
away. Stick masking tape pieces horizontally one close to another. Then peel away every
other tape piece and you are left with the perfect stripe stencil. In the top left corner
of the flag, we will attach the stars studs so we need to keep it black. Dip the brush
into red fabric paint and start coloring the first stripe. I want the flag to have that
distressed look. To achieve that, don’t color the entire stripe perfectly from edge
to edge. Leave some parts on the edges without color. Just paint quickly and don’t pay
attention on making it neat. This will give you a cool distressed flag look. We’re done
with the red paint. Make sure to use fabric paint for dark fabric if you want the colors
to look bright on a darker material. Stick new pieces on the top left corner as before
and on the red stripes when they dry. Go in with white fabric paint. I like coloring the
stripes with a brush as it gives a more distressed result while the sponge applicator will give
you a more even layer of color, which is not what we want in this case.
We are ready to peel off all the tape pieces! I like to still keep the top and the left
one on for the time being – they will guide me where to place the stars. Take the studs.
Place them on the top left corner of the flag, push them through the fabric and with the
help of scissors bend the spikes inside. Peel off the two remaining tape pieces and we are
all done with this epic top! Since the top has cuts all along the sides, I am wearing
it with a black bandeau. See how the chains pop on top of the black! At the bottom of
the shirt I tied two knots to hold everything together and I paired it with distressed denim
shorts and white sneakers. Or you can also make the same design on a white shirt. In
that case you will need red and blue fabric paint. Color the little square on the top
left corner in blue and make red stripes elsewhere on the flag.
From rock chick style to happy and cute. I’ll show you how to easily make a halter top out
of a plain shirt. For this project we need a white fitted shirt, scissors, few needles
or pins, white thread, heart shape print–out and colorful fabric pens.
Lay your shirt flat and cut away the sleeves. Make a cut on both shoulders to separate the
top straps. Then flip the shirt around and make a cut across the back of the shirt connecting
the bottom of the sleeve cuts. Be careful that you only cut the back layer of the top.
Next cut the neckline on the front of the shirt, keeping that rounded shape. Now we
need to make a fold on the neckline. Fold about half an inch edge of fabric towards
the inside of the top and secure it with needles all around the collar. Cut away any extra
fabric in the corners. It’s time to sew the folded edge. Thread your needle, go through
the folded edge and tie the ends of the thread together twice for a secured knot. Continue
stitching up and down along the neckline, making sure you have enough space for a string
in this pocket that we are creating. Keep removing the needles while stitching until
you reach the other side. Make one final stitch through the fabric upwards. Go through the
loop with a needle and make a knot. Repeat this twice to secure your work. Cut away the
excess thread. On the bottom of the shirt I am just going to snip of an inch of the
fabric. To get a straight cut, fold the edge upwards, you can secure it with needles and
cut along the line. We’re going to use that extra fabric to get a string for our halter.
I had to pin the edge along with needles as the fabric kept rolling inside. You should
end up with a fabric ring that you need to cut on one side to get a long string. You
can also cut away the already sewed part here and sew it yourself by making a few stitches
like this. Now you got a nice even string for your halter. Pull it firmly to give it
a more rounded shape, attach a pin on one end and lead it through the folded pocket
on the neckline. Do this step by step. Lead the string through the pocket a couple of
inches, deruffle the fabric, go on a few more inches and deruffle again until your string
comes out on the other side. Pull the string so you have equally long pieces on both sides
and deruffle the neckline. Make a knot on each end of the string. You could also thread
on a bead before tying a knot. That would look so cute! Give all the cut edges a tug
and we are done with the shape of our top. But we still have to give this plain snow
white halter some color. Cut a heart shape out of the print out and place it on the center
of the top. To keep the fabric stretched and flat you can place some heavy objects on the
corners. Secure the stencil in place with some masking tape pieces.
Finally we are ready to use some fabric markers! I am going to fill the heart with colorful
dots of different sizes. First I am making some larger dots and then smaller to fill
the empty space around them. I am using pink, yellow, orange, turquoise, green and purple
markers to create a color explosion in a shape of a heart.
The fabric markers work best on white fabric, see how live and bright the colors are! A
few final dots and we are done. Peel off the masking tape pieces, remove the stencil and
look at our absolutely spectacular design. The heart looks like a beautiful mosaic made
of tiny colored stones. So pretty. I paired the top with my yellow shorts and white sneakers
for a simple yet lovely look. Last but not least we are making a knotted
smiley shirt. You will only need a shirt, piece of chalk or a pencil, and scissors.
That’s it. Lay your shirt flat and sketch where you want to have a smiley face. Make
three cuts along the lines. Next make short cuts crosswise on the left and the right of
the cuts. Give all the little strings a nice tug. Now we need to knot the left and right
string pairs together like so. I like to knot each pair twice. Pull the knots firmly to
secure them. Here I am also cutting the mouth, pulling the strings and tying the upper and
lower pairs together. This knotting technique is a great method for shrinking shirts that
are too big for you. It gives you some nice ruffly texture and also makes the shirt more
fitted. In the end I am just going to cut the bottom edge of the shirt. I’m snipping
away some fabric on the neckline to make it a bit wider, so I can wear it off shoulder.
And I am also cutting away a bit of the sleeves. Here goes the first one. I placed that extra
fabric from the right sleeve on the left one as a guide. Pull all the freshly cut edges
so that the material rolls up and our fifth shirt is finished. I paired it with a flowy
navy skirt and white sneakers for a super comfy but very adorable look.
And these were my five DIY shirts ideas, I really hope you guys like them. If you want
more clothes DIYs give this video a “thumbs up” or let me know in the comments. Also tell
me which of the five shirts is your favorite because I’m really interested in what styles
you like and this also helps me when I’m planning for new DIYs. OK, I hope you’re doing great
and I’ll talk to you soon! Bye! Give another life to your old clothes and
be the creator of your own unique style. Along the way you will freshen up your closet, save
money and protect the environment.

How to Make a Button Down Shirt (casual chambray) | WITHWENDY

Hey there, thanks for watching with Wendy in this tutorial. I’ll show you how to make a denim button-up shirt also known as a Chambray For this tutorial [you] just need some lights denim fabric as well as some fusible interfacing That’s the kind of interfacing that has a glue side so that when you iron it to stuff it sticks You also need five buttons to go in the front of the shirt as well as five decorative buttons if you want there’s one that goes up here two that go on the chest pockets and Two that go on the cuffs For more details on how much fabric and all that kind of stuff make sure [you] check out the bottom bar for links in Terms of times this could take you a long time This is one of the harder tutorials, and I only did it because everyone kept being like do a collared shirt But it’s definitely not easy, so if this is your first time sewing please don’t try this one first [but] if you’re feeling adventurous, and you have a day off go [for] it because this took me a whole day [but] it was fun if you [like] this tutorial please make sure you [subscribe] so you [can] see more and if you want you can also find me online under at With Wendy like on Instagram Twitter Facebook That kind of stuff the bracelet in this video is from Romwe it goes on like this Yeah, one thing I like about this shirt Is that like I made the sleeves? Shorter so you can actually show off all your arm candy stuff if you want to check out wrong.we There’s a link down there for you to check it out if you want and if you don’t want to check it out Then don’t [that’s] all for today. I hope you guys have a really great day, and I will see you all next time bye Lay down a loose-fitting sweater and fold the denim fabric right sides together in half you’re going to cut out the shape That’s on the screen here there’s a little bit of a flap going up on the left-hand side and then following the shoulders the neckline armhole and Along the side and the bottom try to make the bottom a bit longer and a bit curved because that gives a shirt a nice shape you’re also going to cut out two pieces of interfacing that go down the very center [of] your body and climb up that tiny Little strip on the Left-hand side Cut out two symmetrical sleeve pieces by following the shape [that] you see here going a little bit longer than your sweaters arm And then going all the way to the armpit and curving it up to the shoulder in that s shape There’s also the back piece which is right now shown folded so that I could make it perfectly symmetrical But it’s basically the same as the front pieces only that the neckline goes a little bit higher about an inch feel free to make the back piece curved a little bit lower than the front piece because that makes it a nice asymmetrical look and Again on the side with the arm holes just follow the exact same shape the other piece We’re missing is the cuffs make sure you cut out two Rectangles that when folded in half are a little bit wider than your current sweater cuff you also need two strips of fabric that [are] About one inch wide and these are called the [plac] x they’re part of forming the cuff In order for our cuff to have a little structure It’s going to need some interfacing to go alongside it so cut out two interfacing rectangles for those cuffs as well For the caller you need to denim pieces that kind of form this squared out dome shape as well as one piece of interfacing to give us in Structure and For the pockets you need to big house straight pentagon’s and four little pentagon’s to make the flap for the pockets Who so now you’re done cutting out all of your pieces? First step is to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric for all the pieces that are shown here [to] [get] started on the pockets fold and press the top edge on both of the pocket pieces So that the right side of the fabric is on the outside Then go ahead and do the same for all the other sides of the pocket folding in the Corners first and then folding in the whole side [pin] the pockets to the right side of the two front pieces and sew them along the sides and the bottom So the pocket flaps right sides together along the bottom and side edges so that you have two pieces instead of four Flip those inside out like you can see on the top one and then sew it down along the top and along all the sides Cut a little slit along the bottom of the pocket flap so that it’s big enough to fit the button and then use a skinny Zig-Zag stitch And just start at the top go all the way down the right turn it around [and] then go all [the] way back down In those two pocket flaps to the front of the shirt and then sew them down along the bottom edge Once that flap is sewn in [place], then you bring the flap downwards pin it in place And then give it one more top stitch along that top edge so that it stays pressed downwards on your shirt Ten and so those two front pieces to the back piece of the shirt right sides together along the two shoulders and along the side But stop about three inches from the bottom because that makes it look nice Before we keep going [we’ll] prevent anything from fraying in that front edge by going down it with a zig zag stitch We’ll also take those top edges and press them [down] with an iron about a centimeter in On the collar piece that has an interfacing mark out two little triangles about seven inches away from each other and sew them down [these] are [just] going to help things stay in place on your collar Cut inwards until you reach those triangles and then iron that little edge down as well Then lay those two collar pieces on top of each other [right] sides together [sew] those two pieces together alongside the bottom and the other side Flip it inside out push out really hard on those corners, and then sew all the way along the [top] But make sure you don’t sew shut that hole that we left between those two triangles With the whole side facing up pin that collar to the top of the shirt right sides together and then we’re going to sew it together all along the top Edge again leaving that hole open Now fold those two side [flops] [inwards] so that the edge of the flap is touching the center of that little triangle and pin those down along the entire free Edge So that done as well all the [way] across Flip those color pieces and push on those corners to make sure that they are nice and charming To finish the collar we’re just going to hand [stitch] that opening shut On the two sleeve pieces that are right sides together cut inwards about three inches to get the cuff going for a little bit of structural support salt on the two sides of the cut Take those little placket pieces and press it so that it looks like the one that’s on the right with the right side folded inwards A little bit pin the free edge of the placket to the slip that you just cut in the sleeve and sew them together along the Top Edge right sides touching Then bring that [blackett] piece all the way around to hide all the raw edges and sew that down with the top stitch as well Take that placket piece fold it in half so that the sleeve looks like this And then we’re going [to] sew a little diagonal line into the top edge Open up the placket and along the Edge that is touching the long side of the sleeve Fold that one inwards and sew it [down] with a little stitch Here’s where you’re at with your two sleeves You’ve got two little pockets that fold outwards towards the big edge of the sleeping next we’re going to add some darts [I] chose to go with three darts [so] I just drew a couple of dots and the goal is [to] line up the dots and sew a straight line three times to [making] three darts in the [end] you want to make sure that the sleeve that you’re left with can fit around your wrist comfortably? Here’s how it looks with two darts done. I just have one more left to go I sew a straight line from the top dot all the way down to the Reeducate Edge to seal off the Tube to make things easier to fit I don’t go all the way to the edge that way I can adjust the diameter of the sleeve depending on how it fits with The shoulder to add the cuff simply pin the right side of the cuff fabric to the right side of the sleeves Once those are sewn together along the free edge Make sure you press that raw seems that it’s pointing towards the Cotton field Flip that cuff piece upwards and then pin that folded edge to the Edge that you just sew it together try to line them up nice and flush or going to sew along [the] side for that front edge and also the side of [the] [company] Now you take the cuff piece and flip the entire thing inside out once more Pushing on those corners to make sure that they’re nice [and] sharp Start pinning that entire raw Edge down to the sleeve and then we’re going to stow that all together with a straight stitch on the outside of the cuff We’re also going to do a top [stitch] along all of the [free] sides to make sure they’re nice and crisp For now pin those cuffs together instead of sewing on a button. Just because you want to get on with the fitting In the right side of that sleeve to the right side of the shoulder and then try this on It’s likely [that] your sleeve might be a little bit long so slide back as much as you need so [that] it hits your wrist Nicely and then cut off the excess [fabric] that you slid back pin that sleeve back to the shirt so you can tell how much you need to seal off along the bottom Edge and Then with the right sides touching you’re going to seal off the entire armhole attaching that sleeve to the shirt Finish the front fold those raw edges inwards about an inch and sew along the bottom Then flip those inside out and push those corners really hard one more time to make sure they’re really sharp then fold that word inwards twice and you can [handle] the entire bottom this way the last step is [just] like with those pocket flaps you’re going to cut all of The buttonholes that you need so sig zags along those buttonholes, and then attach a button to the other side of the fabric

DIY How To Make an Oversized T-Shirt | Banana & Palm Leaves May Arts Ribbon | Clothes Sewing Project

Bonjour Hi, I’m Venezia Lowis in this video, I cooperate with one of… the famous ribbon company from Stamford, United States …the brand is May Arts Ribbon you can check to their website: they sell any kind of ribbons from satin, silk material and also ribbon with pom pom and flamingo accents, and much more… so cute.. yeay… my package has arrived! the delivery is very fast, it’s only takes about one week wow I’m so excited because I got so many products so many cute ribbons but I can’t show all of them to you you need to subscribe to my channel because I will create DIY with these ribbons in this tutorial, I will make oversized clean cut T-shirt I am wearing tropical leaf ribbon from it’s green it has some summer sensations okay, let’s start the tutorial… that’s all for this tutorial I hope you like it bye bye…

How to Screen Print Simulated Spot Process Step by Step Full Tutorial

By a special request I’m going to show
you step-by-step how to screen print spot or simulated process coming up okay
all of my screens are a 230 mesh I’m using you lando TZ emulsion I’ll leave a
link down the scripts in where you can grab this and I am going to use the
sharp side of my scooped coder and I’m going to coat my screens one-on-one I’m
gonna do the garment side players and the side net now I’m going to set it in
the drying rack like this that what the emulsion is pulled down by gravity and
I’m going to repeat that for the rest of the screens is going now that I’m finished with my emulsion
I’m going to put the remaining motion back in the bucket now I’m gonna take
this over to the wash out for this and just give it a good rinse okay while our screens are drying here
is the artwork that we are going to print this was a little design that I
put together I’ll leave a card up at the tops that way you guys can take a look
at the tutorial and how I design that so the artwork is flattened the image size
is to print size it is 12 by 15 at 200 dpi anywhere from 200 to 300 dpi is
great 200 will save you a little bit of file space so we’re going to bring this
over to separation studio I’m going to open that up real quick okay here is the
image that we are using I am and I am in separation studio and as you can see
here it basically breaks it down to about 9 different colors some of these
colors we will not use for example there’s no information on the green but
we’re going to go to the proof-positive here and we are going to go to channels
we’re going to merge the purple and we are going to merge the turquoise we are going to see what is on the green
doesn’t look like there’s anything there nothing to get excited about so I’m just
going to delete that and now we’re down to six colors our pres has six colors so
that’s absolutely perfect I’m going to hit Auto adjust here I’m just going to
make these Reds really bright some of these yellows and these whites bright as
well so we’re good to go on that in our artwork is all separated out I’m going
to go ahead and save this as an EPS which generally it just does save it as
an EPS I’m going to save this to the desktop for the sake of this tutorial
and going back looking at each of these layers you can see all the colors that
is involved in creating this design let me go back to my ink view so this is our white our white base this
is our red this is our blue our gold our gray and then our white top or white
highlights so now that that saved out I’m going to bring this into my template
which I’ll leave a link down in the description as to where you can buy this
template from us it’s ready to go so you don’t have to fuss with the template has
registration marks and all that which all these registration marks will show
up on every single one of these spot colors so here is our artwork I’m going to
place it on my art layer here and then I’m just going to Center or line it it
looks a little goofy here that’s because this will be going on a black t-shirt if
I jump back over to separation studio you can see that my ground color is
black so whatever’s black in here is actually going to be the t-shirt showing
through now I’m going to bring this layer down because it is a pretty big
print I’m gonna lock my art layer and then I’m going to move my registration
and center marks up and down a couple moves couple two or three moves just get
it out of the artwork okay so now that’s ready to go
I’m hit command P to print and when I go to output we have separations all
selected here and with separation studio it basically brought in all the spot
colors we have our our white base red blue gold gray and white it gives you
the number and what sequence you need to print us at so we’ll do the white base
first flash that and then we’re gonna do the rest of colors wet-on-wet
the red the blue and the gold grains and the white in that sequence and you can
see over here when I brought the art and it did bring in all these spot colors so
I’m going to go ahead and make sure that we’re only printing those six spot
colors so I’m gonna go ahead and hit print and we’ll show you the film coming
up and before I get too far ahead of myself I am using accurate black pearl
that is what we are sending it to so it’s sending the art over to accurate
black pearl which sends it to our Epson 1430 the settings that we are using is
45 LPI and we’re using 230 mesh screens okay our first piece of film is coming
out and here it is finishing up you can see the little half pounds in
this design and now all we have to do is wait for our other five piece of the
film to come out while these films are printing out the
screens are drying once the films are finished the screen should just about be
dry and then we’ll go to the exposure unit okay all of our films are finished
all six are out put the film that we use here is 13 by 19 waterproof inkjet film
they cost around 57 cents apiece I’ll leave a link down a description where
you guys can get that and save yourself a little bit of money on film okay our
film is all finished let’s see if our screens are dry they look dry to me so let’s grab our
film and expose all six of these screens let’s do it okay here’s the first screen that we’re
going to expose let’s go ahead and do our white base first you want to make
sure you do the tacky side down so I’m just going to Center that up in the
middle of my screen and it takes some scotch tape just secure that down we’re
going to flip this over going to lock our exposure unit lid down I think I’ll
set this one at about 310 and hopes that we can retain some of those smaller
details make sure I hit enter turn my vacuum on and then I’m going to expose
it once this screen that’s finished
exposing I’m going to take it stick it in the washout booth grab another screen
and a piece of film stick it on the exposure unit start the exposure process
and then I’m going to wash out the current screen that’s exposing what that
will do is speed up the process and you can wash it out a screen while the other
screen is exposing a little bit of a tip for you what that way when the emotions go out it
will fall out evenly that way you’re not watching out your
halftone now starting to fall out
and the new credit one now I’m going to give it a quiz but on the outer edge just to let water
kind of she’s down and rinse away any of the unexposed emulsion or emulsion that
I just rinsed out now we’re going to take this and set it in the Sun let it
dry and then we’re gonna rinse and repeat literally I’m gonna set this
thing in the Sun and let it post Harden and it also will help it dry a little
faster another little quick tip for you pull up
and today one of the things you want to do with spot process is be sure to check
your film and compare it to your screen looks great let’s proceed the things you
want to be sure to do is include the name of the color and your output on
your film that way you have it in your screen and it will make setting up your
job that much easier be sure to check your glass after every exposure and make
sure it is clean if you need to take some more Windex and paper towel and
wipe it down so that way you don’t end up with pinholes and your screens okay I
just washed out the last expose image on our screen so I’m gonna set it out into
the Sun let them dry as soon as those are finished drying we’re gonna go on
press and get these out today so let’s do it the inks that we will be using for
this job it’s just a standard red a mono blue a golden yellow gray which this
grey is a will Flex spot process cool grey but I ran out of that long time ago
and I just made a custom mix that was similar to it it don’t have to be
spot-on guys and then we’re going to use our standard will Flex epic amazing
bright white underbase and white highlight or white top quick a little
tip you do not have to have these spot colors
that are associated with separation studio the only time I really use the
spot colors is when I’m doing some sort of flesh tones everything else I use
whatever color I feel like putting in there that way I can make it a bright
blue a bright red a bright yellow of right turquoise where the case may be
you do not have to have the spot colors that separation studio says that you
need experiment with it a little bit with you what I’m doing at this moment is
preheating my palate and they’re not going to put a test t-shirt on it do my
first print register the rest of my screens off of it and ink them up once I
feel that the registration is pretty spot-on run my test print see how it
looks with simulated process you have to do a handful of test prints before it
really starts working out correctly what I like to do is take my white base lie
on my screen up with my center marks that I have drawn on the pallet I use my
Center marks from the template that I have created which you guys can go and
grab I’ve Center my screen here make sure my center lines are nice and
centered nothing lock that down give a little bit of wiggle looks like
it move just a touch I’m gonna use my micro registration get
back to where it needs to be make sure everything is nice tight so it doesn’t
move during the printing process now I’m going to eat my street always be sure to
stir your ink up really well that way it will kind of help loosen it up kind of
break down those molecules a little bit and then I’m going to take a healthy
amount and load my screen up making sure I’m not pressing the ink in the image
area now what I’m going to do is I’m going to take a blank t-shirt the test
t-shirt you can use a test pal on hell on or whatever it’s called however I
happen to have this shirt laying around sometimes we get extra shirts because
sometimes we just need to order a couple extra shirts in order to meet that $200
mark did get free shipping so I got my test shirt loaded up I’m going to flood
my screen this is my white base and I’m gonna give it about two or three good
solid hits one flood two or three good solid hits just to completely clear the
mesh here is our white base so now I’m going to go ahead and flash this base
and then we’re gonna come back and register the rest of the screens up
based on these registration marks now that everything is nice and flash
I’m gonna take my finger make sure my registration marks are cool now I’m
gonna take each one of these screens and go through and line up my registration
marks in each one of my screens and make sure everything is nice and registered
up so you find your way back okay I’m
pretty happy with how all these screens are looking let’s go ahead and ink them
up and run some tests friends okay have my screens all inked up now
what I’m going to do is I’m just going to flood each of these screens and then
do a good solid push print on each one of these and then we’ll see where these
marks all line up and how things are starting to look keep in mind that you
will have to do maybe three four five sometimes six four things we’ll start
looking right there’s our first hit of red I’m gonna
do these wet-on-wet our first hit of blue per city yellow first to the gray now we’re going to do
our white on top okay so here’s our first little test
print obviously it’s looking a little faded however it will start to look
better as we do more and more test prints so what I’m looking at is my
registration marks and they look pretty good I don’t think I’m going to make any
changes I’m gonna roll with it as this I’ll get a little bit of a close-up as
you can see our registration marks are looking fairly spot-on let’s go check these out down towards
the bottom air things pretty bang on you see it is looking a little faded and
the reason being is that was our first time around so some of the egg is
picking up on the back of the screen as we do more test prints you can get the
true amount of beat the possibly on to the shirt some of these colors will
start to mix a little more you’ll see somewhat of a change here a little bit
you can see not the the red and completely wasn’t
clearing the screen I like to play it on the safe side and just do one hits that
way I’m not putting down too much ink and closing up some of those dots that
don’t need to be closed up so let’s go ahead and do some more test brings I
went ahead and flash this so nothing coming up let’s take this shirt when you turn it around going to take my white bass and guys
keep in mind as you are handling these screens you just want to do it fairly
gently you don’t want to whip the screens back and forth you can knock
them out of registration so I’m going to go ahead and let this up give it a
couple two or three hits so it clears you also notice some of these tiny
little dots will start showing up that haven’t been there before I’m going to
go ahead and slash this real quick looks like we’re all nice and flashed
now let’s go through the process again I’m going to flood my red give it a good solid hit there we can see the Reds starting
to show up a little brighter and you want to handle this almost like an
automatic would good firm press really digging in somewhat upright maybe
closer to 45 and you just almost want to be automated
and how you’re doing this print be consistent it the more consensus
consistent you are the better this is going to look here is test print number
two you see the color is a little brighter starting to get some of the
sandy kind of look mixing in the background some more just looking pretty
great you’re going to go ahead and flash this and we might do one maybe two more
I’m just going to use the inside of this shirt so I’m going to slip this dude inside
out now we’re going to use the inside of
this shirt you notice you don’t see any of the ink
coming through on the inside of the shirt you just want to lay your eat on
top of the shirt you want to press it through the knit going to flood it up make sure we’re completely clearing the
mesh going to flash it make sure it’s nice and flashed
remove my flash out the way for the burn my palette up you fan it off a little
bit now let’s go ahead and do the whole sequence again there’s our red here’s our blue here is our yellow art gray last but not least our white
highlight for our white top look at that that’s just starting to come together
looks like we’re just about off to the races guys it’s looking pretty good
the only issue I see is a little bit of white sticking out right here however if
I bump that too much you might throw me out of registration so it could just be
a fact that my palettes are warped these things are concave it’s time to replace
them but to me this is acceptable all right we’re just gonna flash here this and take it off the pallet and then we’re going to print last but
not least on the other side make sure our skirt is nice and flat going to do my white bass this time I
might just take two hits looks like it cleared two hits now things starting to
flow through the mesh I’m gonna go ahead and flash this okay I flashed it for about a good six
to eight seconds really wasn’t keeping account with that I know that generally
for a fact that’s what I tend to do I’m gonna go ahead and do our red we’re going to do our blue again
somewhat of an upright printing position really push that eat through there you are with our gray last but not least our white top and there we have it I believe we are
ready for production let’s take a closer look okay this is test print number four
looking pretty dope see all the chrome would not inside the motorcycle we got
our kind of desert background going here pavement overrode our Eagles looking
pretty cool everything is looking great now it’s time to tape off these
registration marks and then we’re gonna go to town on these t-shirts so I’m
gonna grab my masking tape I’m gonna pull my flash over above the pallets and
while I’m taping these things off I’m gonna let that flash sit there and
you’re going to rotate these pallets underneath the flash allowing them to
warm up well I’ll take some tapes it’s hard doing this one-handed and holding
the camera so I’m gonna take my tape unit tape each one of these marks off
once I get finished with this screen I’m gonna rotate the next pallet underneath
the flash that way it will warm them up and we’ll make my tack sticky again be
sure to check out our link here to a video on how to rejuvenate the tack and
remove the lint from your pallets so I’m gonna go ahead and I’m gonna take care
of that and take the recipes off I need to put this camera down as I’m still warming some of these
pallets up check out the e that builds up on the back these Springs and this is
what you want really and truly you want to eat the build up on the back of the
shirt sometimes you may need to flash in between colors because not every job is
the same this is our base
take the pellet here’s our red there’s nothing that’s
going to be built up on there so that our second color after flashing so
here’s our blue you can see the red building up on the back of that rotates
pallets so here’s our yellow you see the red and
the blue built up on the back pallet rotation here’s our grand you can see the yellow take us again and then here’s our lime
you see all four of those colors on back cattle red or blue or yellow or gray and
that’s just part of doing spot processed this is almost like simulated product
our excuse me CMYK but we’re using opaque ease and
they just kind of stack on top one another and they blend a little bit
that’s what you want is you want the eats
to blend and whatever you do do not touch the bottom of these screens after
you’ve got everything all set up and you’re getting things going because it
will just completely make a mess of your friend while I am warming up Lee’s Palace I’m
going to take a look at our last test friend and make sure that we do not have
any pinholes that are noticeable chin will be at the other end
stacking shirts and at this moment this would be a good time to see if there are
any obvious pin holes in the shirt that we may want to just go ahead and tape
off so that seems like a little something here looks like white this may be another pinhole here that
looks like Lin that one doesn’t seem to be rubbing off
so to me that looks like white might be another little pinhole here aside from that after our first couple
of prints we’ll keep an eye out for pinholes and if they do have in the show
we’ll use a blowout gun we’ll take care of those and there it is right there
you see that there’s a little pinholes so we’re going to take that off let’s
see what else we have and that just might be laughs you know but I think I’m
gonna toss a little tape up over here
you see if we can’t catch that and I think we’re good for now Shannon
will definitely let me know if there’s any pinholes okay I use my method to
remove the lint from the pallets rejuvenating the tack as I said before
you see they’re gonna be up here here be sure to check out our video on how to do
that using a water-based pallet any social this is nice and tacky this
palace started to get more which is what we want okay it’s time to go into
production guys okay it is production time
I’m going to load my shirts up there’s multiple ways that you could go about
doing this however I prefer to do it this way I’m going to load my shirts up
let me go underneath the flash that will get rid of any moisture in the t-shirts
they’ll also help shrink the shirts up a little bit it’s that way when I do go to
lay my base my colors will still they’ll still be spot on and the other way you
could do is you could load a shirt up print the shirt with your base
rotate it underneath the flash and as that shirt comes around you do your
colors on top unload that shirt load a new shirt hit your base rotate it and do
the next shirt with your five colors on top of that white face however I like to
do it this method because if I were do the loading the shirt
hitting the white bass doing the six colors taking it off loading a shirt
doing the bass what happens for me is the pallets tend to cool down and they
lose their tax so this is the method I like to do alright so we’re gonna do our
white bass on all six of these shirts and as soon
as that first shirt that I just printed comes around I’m going to do my six
colors on top of that and then unload my shirts and rotate the pallet as I print
them and I’ll show you guys what I’m talking about and what that will do is
allow the pallets to sit underneath the flash a little longer keeping them warm
keeping the tack nice and tacky central so just keep an eye out make sure that
you’re completely clearing your base sometimes two hits works just fine I’m
probably going just a little too fast which is why I’m needing to do it for a
third time all right here we are in our first shirt I’m going to go ahead and
hit my red now one of the things I’m gonna have to do
I could either sidestep but so I don’t have to adjust the camera I’m just going
to move my flash out of the way generally out with sidestep for that
first shirt here’s our blue our gold yellow our grave and our highlight white now it looks
pretty awesome now I’m going to send this downline shams going to take a look
at it or any pinholes now I’m going to move my flash back like I said I
generally would side steps so I don’t have to do that and it’ll speed things
up so let’s go through all these shirts we’re gonna do our red and as you start
to work on this job you’ll become more efficient with your printing you’ll be
faster and you’ll get into the groove so to speak so at a rate doing shirts like
this I can do on a good day about 80 slow down I’ll do about 45 hours I found like Shannon may have found a
pinhole getting guys be somewhat machine like
firm consistent press chance I got perhaps a 10-10 whole issue going on as soon as I get done doing this last
shirt now we’ll take a look at it and we will fix any of those issues shirt number three and I’m having to step around this
camera so it’s making me just a little slower you guys are right here I read I believe controlled in yellow Gregg and keep in mind guys that these
are all 230 mesh screens 45 LTI doing the wide base and the rest of the five
colors wet-on-wet here we are in shirt number five it’s easy squeegee with these bigger
designs kind of it’s in the way a little bit golden-yellow be consistent and as you
go just keep firm pressure on both sides of the squeegees and the middle will take care of itself shirt number five last but not least
shirt number six golden-yellow be consistent got our gray
just helps blend the the base and your highlight okay let’s do a little bit of a closer you can see how these colors are just
certain blend here and they tell this motorcycle are getting some nice chrome
details going on here here’s our road the hard highlights of this road but
looks pretty awesome what do you think Shannon she giving it the shop numbs
thumb up of approval I think that about covers at this time
don’t you think thanks for tuning in don’t forget to subscribe give this
video a thumbs up leave a comment even if it’s just a Hello as always don’t
forget we are an official rep for cast fit productions so use our promo code
Micha designs if you’re in the market for screen printing supplies or
equipment that will help support our channel and help us to continue making
videos such as these Phil next time guys I’m going to ship these shirts out of

DIY Turn Old Dress Into T-Shirt | Velvet Tee | Clothes Transformation

Bonjour! Hi, I’m Venezia Lowis this time I made a velvet t-shirt I remodeled this from my own old dress creation I’ve had a crush on this velvet fabric although many of people say this fabric is weird… old… but I think this fabric is unique the drape of fabric is also gorgeous it reflects light which makes this fabric so shiny btw, velvet has been a strong fall trend this season so, we immediately begin to the DIY! let’s go!

Enterprise Designer in the Spectrum Technology Platform

This video will cover the enterprise designer and how to create a real-time service. Enterprise Designer is the graphical user interface that is provided with the Spectrum Technology Platform to create both real time services and batch jobs. You can do a drag-and-drop to create your business rules and have the same rules in batch and real-time. Based on what you’re licensed for you will see different modules listed here on the left- hand side. For example, you can see the Advanced Matching module and the Data Normalization module, among others. We will create a new service, and drag an input and output, to act as a starting point and end point for our work flow. We’ll also add a geocoding module for the United States, plus a Transactional Match module (for de-duplication) and connect them all together. If you double-click on the input before connecting it to the geocoding module, you will see that there no input fields given. However, once you connect the two, it propagates the input metadata to the left and the output metadata to the right. We will double-click on the input now and you can see a number of fields are available. We will select two fields to expose: AddressLine1 and LastLine. Then we will add two new fields as well: a first name and last name. As an alternative, you could have also added in a full name field and used the name parsing functionality. We will double-click on the geocoding module now and select the option to override the default options. This will allow you to customize all of the geocoding options. These are all available to be passed in through the API or web services as well. A nice feature for batch processing is found by clicking the Runtime button. If you are running different batch jobs, perhaps running a job over the weekend, and it has 50 or 100 million records, you can increase the number of instances. This means that instead of just having one stage for geocoding, you can have multiple threads running in parallel. Next we will look at the Transactional Match module. A transaction match would be used on a front-end webpage when you are onboarding new customers and you want to check to see if a customer is already in your database, or if they used to be in your database. We will click New to create new rules and add a parent called Demo. You have the option to return unique candidates. Next we will add a child and tell it that we want to match on AddressLine1. We will repeat that process to add three more to match on PostalCode, FirstName and LastName. If we click on AddressLine1 we can decide which algorithm to use. A good one to use for AddressLine1 is Numeric String, which dictates that the numeric values have to match exactly. We will also reduce the threshold to allow for a 10% discrepancy in the text. For PostalCode we will leave it as an Exact Match and leave the threshold at 100%. For FirstName we will select Metaphone, allowing for names that are spelled differently but pronounced the same. We will also select Name Variant which will take into account nicknames. If we click Edit we can specify that this is checking against first names and taking into account gender. We’ll also lower the threshold for this. For the LastName we will use SubString which will take into account a woman’s married name versus her maiden name. We will also use the NameVariant here but change the option to specify that it is checking against last names. And finally we will use KeyboardDistance to take into account any misspellings that may have been cause by pressing an adjacent key on the keyboard. We will also bring the threshold down a little on this. Now that we have created some rules we can enter some data to test the process. Double-click on the input module and switch to the Inspection Input tab. We will enter a couple of lines of address information with a first and last name. In the first line, we put all the address information in the same field and enter a name of Bill Smith. In the second line we enter the address information in two fields and enter a name of William Smith with a misspelling of Smith. Now we can run the process, adding inspection points at various stages of the workflow to see the data being processed. With an inspection point between the input module and the geocoding module, the data looks the same as we entered it. If we move the inspection point after the geocoding module you can see quite a bit of additional information gets added, including a corrected address and a latitude and longitude. Finally if we move the inspection point after the transactional match module we get even more fields returned. Based on the elements used in the transactional match module – that is the AddressLine1, PostalCode, FirstName and LAstName – Spectrum is going to return a confidence value for each one and an overall score for all of them. The overall score for the second record we entered was 96% with some of the fields scoring 100%. The last name we entered with the misspelling only scored 84%, which means it failed, because we set the threshold to be 90%. That means that based on the threshold values we set, Spectrum determines that this second record is different from the first. If we go back into the transactional match module and reduce the threshold to 80% and run it again, Spectrum will tell us that the second record is now a duplicate of the first. To finish, we will save this workflow and expose it so that it becomes available as a web service.

Skype Translator – Como configurar e usar o Tradutor

Olá meus queridos amigos curiosos internautas! Tudo bem com vocês? Comigo está tudo bem! Eu sou o Alex Bassani e você está no Deixo a Dica. Olha só que leval que eu vou falar hoje Sobre o Skype Translator Eu tenho certeza que muita gente ainda não conhece Quem faz compra, por exemplo, em outros países É uma ferramenta essencial para conseguir conversar em tempo real com a tradução ali, no momento da digitação ou da fala É muito bacana, muito simples e bem interessante Então vamos lá, vamos abrir aqui o Skype Vamos habilitar essa opção aqui ó, Skype Translator Você configura a sua região, o seu idioma E depois você configura o idioma da pessoa com quem você vai conversar O Skype já tem vários idiomas salvos E feito isso, só habilitar! Pronto Agora vamos fazer um teste aqui. Vou mandar uma mensagem para essa pessoa que está me atendendo lá na China. Assim que eu digitar. Ele já vai fazer a tradução pra ela lá. Oh que bacana, vou clicar aqui em “Ver Tradução” Pra vocês verem como que aparece pra ela. É dessa forma que ela vê A mesma coisa é ela digitando pra mim aqui Quando ela digita, eu vejo traduzido Mas olha só com que ela vê lá Vou clicar aqui em “Ver original” É dessa forma que ela vê lá E é muito bacana também, que quando você vai fazer chamadas de voz Quando você clica em “Chamar” Tudo o que eu falar aqui no Skype Ele vai receber as informações, E vai traduzir automaticamente pra ela Ela escuta o que eu disse, E logo na sequência ela escuta a tradução. E o que ela falar lá na língua dela, Eu vou ouvir o que ela disse, e logo na sequência eu vou ouvir a tradução. Mas pra isso dar certo, você precisa habilitar Esse Skype Translator, antes de iniciar uma conversa ou uma digitação. Se você habilitar o Skype Translator depois que ela já digitou alguma coisa, Ele não vai traduzir Ele vai traduzir só o que você fizer A parir do momento que estiver ativado. Pessoal Muito bacana essa dica, principalmente pra quem faz comercio exterior! Eu espero que tenham gostado, Se gostou, já sabe! Deixe seu like aí no vídeo, E não se esqueça de se inscrever no canal! É muito importante pro canal crescer! Um abraço e até a próxima!!!!

Excel Tutorial: What is Business Intelligence and an OLAP Cube? |

In this lesson, you’re going to understand the
concepts of OLAP, MDX and business
intelligence. But before we move on to OLAP, let’s look at
some of the problems that OLAP was invented
to solve. Dr E.F. Codd, an IBM scientist, invented the
relational database in the early ’70s. In 1979 Oracle released their first commercial
relational database product. By the mid to late 1990s, relational databases
had come of age. Almost all big corporations used a relational
database, to store their data. But with the adoption of relational databases
came a problem. Companies found that relational databases were
great at storing data, but made it difficult to generate management
reports, from transactional data. If, for example, you needed to report sales for a
specific month, the database server would potentially have to
loop through millions of transactions, in order to
generate a total. On the hardware of the day, this would often
slow down the entire system to the point where it became unusable for critical
business operations. Of course, the reports would still be generated
eventually, but the whole process took far too
long. So Dr Codd looked at the problem once again,
and came up with a solution: OLAP. The idea behind OLAP was to pre-compute all of
the totals and subtotals needed for reporting. At night or at the weekend, when the database
server was normally idle. The totals are stored in a special database,
called an OLAP Cube. An OLAP Cube doesn’t have to loop through any
transactions, because totals are all pre-
calculated, providing instant access. An OLAP Cube is a snapshot of data at a
specific point in time, perhaps at the end of a
specific day, week, month or year. The standard version of Excel 2013 now provides
a complete OLAP solution, on your desktop. In Lesson 6-2, you actually created an OLAP
Cube without realizing it. When you create an OLAP Pivot Table, from a
data model, an OLAP Cube is automatically
created in the computer’s memory. And is used to power an OLAP Pivot Table. At any time, you can refresh the Cube, using
the current values in the source tables. With very large data sets, it could take an
appreciable amount of time for Excel to
reconstruct the Cube. But with the data sets we’ve been using (just a
couple of thousand rows), the process appears
to be instantaneous. Now, let’s move on to Business Intelligence (or
BI). When IT professionals talk about Business
Intelligence, they usually mean the analysis and
presentation of data, stored in an OLAP Cube. In the recent past, it was very expensive to
implement a Business Intelligence solution. BI projects would often take many months to
complete, and involve large numbers of highly-
trained IT professionals, to design and extract data into the OLAP
Cubes. The vision for the Excel data model is that
ordinary Excel users can create a ready-to-go
OLAP Cube almost instantly. Microsoft sometimes called this concept Self
Service BI. And unlike traditional Business Intelligence
solutions, it can be implemented by ordinary
Excel users, and provides instant results. Because the OLAP Cube is generated
automatically. Now that you understand the concept behind
OLAP, let’s look at how an OLAP Cube works in
more detail. You know that you can create an OLAP Cube
from an Excel data model. Conceptually, you can think of an OLAP Cube
as consisting of many boxes, each with a total
inside it. Now, let’s cover some OLAP terminology. It’s important you understand this terminology,
because you’ll find it used in some of the OLAP
functions that will be used later in this session. And you’ll also find it used in Microsoft’s Help
pages. So first, let’s talk about Dimensions. I’m going to add a Dimension, to this OLAP
Cube. And that is the Category dimension. You can see that this data would originate in the
Category table. And you can see that the front slice of the Cube
is coming from rolled up totals, in the
Confections category. The center slice is coming from rolled up totals
in Condiments category. And the rear slice is coming from rolled up totals
in the Beverages category. Now, let’s look at another Dimension. This time,
the Dimension of Time. We’re going to have January rolled up totals in
the top slice of the Cube, February rolled up totals in the next slice. Then, March and then, April rolled up totals, in
the bottom slice of the Cube. And now, let’s cover another piece of OLAP
technology, the Measure. A Measure is simply the thing that’s being
totaled. So let’s add some Measures along the bottom
of the Cube: In Stock, On Order, Sales Amount,
Sales Cost, and Sales Quantity. Let’s now put a value into one of those little
boxes, and see how we’d retrieve it. When you retrieve a value from an OLAP Cube,
the value is said to be at a Cube intersection. That is an intersection of a Measure and
Dimensions. I can see that the Measure, this time, is the
Sales Amount. So the 2,233 is the total amount of sales at
some point. Then, I can see that this is in the January slice. So I know that 2,233 involves sales rolled up in
January. And then, I can see it’s in the Confections
dimension. So I know this is sales for Confections in
January, and it’s a sales amount. So 2,233 is the total sales amount in January, in
the Confections category. Now, let me talk about another piece of OLAP
terminology, the concept of Hierarchies. A good example of a Hierarchy is months,
quarters and years. Items in a Hierarchy have a parent/child
relationship. And Hierarchies come into play when you drill
down into data. To make a bit more sense of what I’ve just said,
let’s add an example, by adding a rolled up
total, for 2013. You might begin by looking at sales for 2013,
but then, need to drill down, into sales for March
2013. In this respect, 2013 is a parent in the
Hierarchy, and the months are children within
the Hierarchy. You can, of course, always compute the total
parent sales, by adding the sales of all the
children together. Let’s now add some more values, to the front
slice of this OLAP Cube. And you can see that I can now see (in the
Confections category) my rolled up totals for
January, February, March and April, in the five Measures (In Stock, On Order, Sales
Amount, Sales Cost and Sales Quantity). And in order to retrieve any of those values, I’d
have to provide two Dimensions and one
Measure. Now that you understand how OLAP Cubes
work, let’s look at how Excel retrieves values
from an OLAP Cube, into an OLAP Pivot Table. Here, we have an OLAP Cube that’s been
created from a relational data source. When the OLAP Pivot Table wants to get
information from the OLAP Cube, it uses a language called MDX (or
Multidimensional Expressions). The OLAP Pivot Table creates an MDX query. And the Cube sends back the data requested by
the MDX query. Now, you’ll be pleased to know that you don’t
need to learn the MDX query language, in order
to use an OLAP Pivot Table. The queries are created behind the scenes
automatically, for you. Although it is possible to also roll your own, if
you do know the MDX query language. You’re going to see some MDX expressions
later, in Lesson 6-6. MDX is an open standard that’s also used by
many non-Microsoft products, such as Cognos
PowerPlay. An OLAP Pivot Table can, in theory, be used to
report from any MDX-compliant OLAP source. Well, now that you understand the concepts of
OLAP, MDX and Business Intelligence, you’re
ready to move on with the rest of this session. And you’ve now completed Lesson 6-3:
Understand OLAP, MDX and Business

Evernote Business Walkthrough

Hi, I’m Josh with Evernote. I’m excited to show you the key features
in administering and using Evernote Business. What is Evernote Business What is Evernote Business
Set up and manage Set up and manage
Share collections of content Share collections of content
Organize all your business materials Organize all your business materials
Discover what your collegues know What is Evernote Business Evernote’s core goal is to help you remember everything. Over 45,000,000 people use Evernote worldwide,
and the majority of them use it for their work. We’ve built Evernote Business to better meet
the needs of these individuals and their companies. Evernote works on all platforms:
Windows, Mac, Android, iPhone, tablets and the Web. Your main Evernote account is a collection of notes. Virtually anything can be put in an Evernote note:
text and checkboxes, pictures, PDFs and files,… …audio recordings, web-site clippings and more. You can organize these notes any way you like:
using notebooks, stacks of notebooks or tags. You can also search for hand-written
or printed text within an image or PDF. In addition to Evernote you can use
our other apps to create or modify notes:… …such as Skitch for marking of images,… …Web Clipper for clipping content from the Web,
and Clearly to make web-pages easier to read. Evernote Business is our top of the line product and includes
all the features of the free and Premium Evernote application. Evernote Business Premium includes priority support,
offline access to notes on mobile devices,… …PIN lock to password-protect a mobile device, access to
“roll-back a note” — to a previous snapshot and note history,… …and full-text search of PDFs. There is no limit to how much you can store in Evernote… …and with Evernote Business we offer increased monthly upload quota,
so businesses can post all their important content. Set up and manage your
Evernote Business Get started using the form on an Evernote Business web page. Sign in with your existing Evernote account
or enter your contact information here. You’ll enter your business name, billing information and enroll users. The new admin console lets you and anyone you designate
manage your business account, users and content. From here you can quickly onboard users by entering an e-mail address
or by specifying a domain name,… ….allowing for anyone from that domain to register themselves. Revoke access to your account
and set-up additional admins within the “Manage Users” tab. Access and manage all business notebooks
in the “Manage Notebooks” section. This is where an admin can assign an owner to a notebook,
share a notebook, add it to the business library or delete a notebook. Once you have a lot of users in your business,
you can use the activity feed in Evernote to stay up to date. You’ll see updates whenever someone joins a notebook
and whenever someone adds or edits a note. Share collections of content Collect all your important content into your business library –… …much like a regular library storing all the information
you want accessible across your entire company. Business users can browse and join notebooks. Upon joining any of these notebooks
a checkmark will appear on the upper right-hand corner… …and it’ll then be added to your notebook view. Administrators can also use the admin console to designate
a notebook as recommended within your business library. These are the notebooks you want to highlight for users to join. Organize all your
business materials All your personal notes and notebooks stay separate
from business notes and business notebooks. As you’ll see in your notebook view, there a visual separation
between what is personal, represented by the tan notebooks,… …and what is business, represented by the gray notebooks. This partition is not just visual —
it’s at the hart of our data ownership policy. Everything in a personal notebook is private by default
and owned by the individual user,… …meaning if they were to leave the company
everything marked “personal” goes with them. The personal section cannot be viewed or accessed by the business. Alternatively, everything marked “business” and signified visually
by a gray notebook is property of the company… …and will stay with the business even
if the notebook creator were to leave the company. Create a new business notebook using the pull-down menu here. You may select a group of notes… …then move or copy notes from your personal notebook
to a business notebook. You can share a notebook with individuals. Or, if you want it accessible for the entire organization,
add it to the business library. Set up and Manage your
Evernote Business You already know what’s in your personal notes,… …but our new Evernote Business discovery tools
make it easier to also know what your team knows. The activity stream will always keep you up to date
with any activity on your shared notebooks. Search in Evernote Business finds you the content you’re looking for
across all your personal and business notebooks. When you’re authoring a note, a “Related Notes” feature will suggest
some useful relevant notes from you and colleagues. For instance, here I’m creating a note about our new
Evernote Smart Notebook by Moleskine,… …and I’m presented with notes about Moleskine. Similarily, if you have a Web Clipper installed
and search on the Internet,… …you’ll see related results appear
right alongside your search results. When I search for “Moleskine”,
I see helpful notes from my personal notebooks,… …business notebooks,
and colleagues’ business notebooks appear along the side. With Evernote Business you can share knowledge across your
company, capture everything that’s important to your business… …and discover shared knowledge to get more done. For more info go to